THE PSYCHOLOGICAL EDGE IN OLYMPIC CLIMBING
Climbing has come such a long way from its roots as a niche recreational activity. Now it's part of the Olympics, ready to kick off next week. We can't wait for it to happen, and until then, we want to shed light on the psychological aspects that distinguish pro climbers from the rest.
As we have all possibly experienced—no matter what level we climb at—while physical strength and technical skills are incredibly important, psychological factors play an almost equally pivotal role in climbing performance. In fact, research suggests that psychological aspects such as problem-solving ability, movement sequence recall, route finding, self-efficacy and stress management may even be better predictors of climbing performance than physiological or biomechanical parameters (Sanchez et al., 2019).
Among these, key psychological skills for climbers include embodied planning, route previewing, climbing movement repertoire, and risk management (Jones & Sanchez, 2017; Sanchez et al., 2019).
Photo credits: Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC
Embodied Planning: The Mind-Body Connection
Embodied planning is the mental blueprint climbers create before attempting a route. This process involves visualizing each move and predicting potential challenges. Before climbers start climbing, they engage in intense mental rehearsals, visualizing each move and sequence. This mental preparation is crucial, especially in lead climbing, where climbers only get one shot at completing a route. Our brains learn to simulate physical actions, preparing us for the actual climb. If already mentally rehearsed, the ability to retrieve the solution for a certain sequence will be faster and hence cost less energy. In highly powerful routes with hardly any rests, this is an invaluable skill. In bouldering, an additional factor is that climbers can make multiple attempts and adapt climbing strategies after a failed climbing attempt. Effective time management across attempts is also a critical strategic aspect. Since climbing nowadays is less about physical strength and more about solving the beta as quickly as possible, embodied planning becomes even more important. Mental rehearsal can save time and energy, ultimately enhancing performance (Medernach & Memmert, 2021; Sanchez et. al, 2019; Henz et. al., 2024).
Route Previewing: Seeing Success Before It Happens
Route previewing involves visually inspecting the climbing route or boulder problem before attempting it. This skill is essential in competitions where physical practice isn't allowed. Climbers must rely on their ability to process visual information, anticipate challenges, and mentally simulate their moves. Mistakes in this phase can be costly. Errors in route previewing can include overlooking holds or footholds, misreading beta, or internalizing incorrect beta. In cases of uncertainty about the beta, it can be helpful to visualize several options. Once on the wall, trusting your body to make the right decision based on what was visualized beforehand becomes easier. It is also helpful to plan resting points and spots to stop and breathe if something goes unplanned on the wall. This reset can help refocus on the next moves if things don't go as planned (Sanchez et. al., 2010; Sanchez & Dauby, 2009).
Climbing Movement Repertoire: The Library of Moves
A climber's movement repertoire is akin to a mental library of climbing techniques and strategies. This knowledge, stored in long-term memory, allows climbers to recognize familiar patterns and execute moves with precision. Experienced climbers can draw upon this repertoire to navigate complex routes efficiently. Often, experienced climbers give this tip to youth athletes or beginners: just go climbing as much as possible, have fun, and try different moves. There’s truth to this advice because the more experience one gains, the larger their repertoire of movements becomes. This expanded repertoire enhances the ability to recall movements and improves problem-solving abilities on the wall, especially in stressful situations like competitions or even the Olympics (Pezzulo et al., 2010; Neumann, 2019; Medernach et al.,2024; Sanchez et. al., 2019).
Risk Management: Balancing Fear and Focus
Climbing inherently involves risk, and managing this risk is crucial for safety and performance. A recent study showed that 9% of climbers reported experiencing an injury within the previous 12 months due to falls, which resulted in a forced break from climbing (Luiggi et al., 2023). Accordingly, integrating appropriate risk management into the embodied process of planning climbing ascents is essential.
This aspect is particularly significant for younger climbers, who may exhibit more risk-taking behaviors and are hence more prone to falling or even injuries. Experienced climbers develop a keen sense of their capabilities and limits, leading to fewer injuries and more calculated risks. This is particularly important given the modern style of route setting, which includes jumps, pressing and balancing movements in lead routes, and a lot of coordinative, dynamic, open movements in bouldering. Just like with the climbing movement repertoire, the more experience one has with open, risk-taking movements, the better they can recall this ability when it matters. Additionally, experienced climbers are better able to calculate risks, avoiding injuries or unnecessary falls (Martha et al., 2009; Seifert, et al., 2021).
A climber's success is deeply rooted in both their physical abilities and their psychological skills. Key psychological aspects include embodied planning, where climbers mentally rehearse routes to enhance performance; route previewing, which involves visualizing and planning strategies before climbing; building a vast movement repertoire through varied climbing experiences; and effective risk management to balance fear and focus. These elements combine to create a comprehensive approach to climbing, enabling climbers to tackle challenges with precision and confidence.
How can you incorporate mental rehearsal into your climbing practice? Are you effectively previewing routes to anticipate challenges? What steps can you take to improve your risk management and decision-making on the wall?
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