THE STACKED FIELD OF WORLD CUP CLIMBING

…or how to navigate the complexity and increased competition

World Cup climbing has witnessed a remarkable transformation in the last few years, with the sport increasing in popularity, and more and more climbers participating. As training facilities improve, federations have more money thanks to climbing having become an Olympic sport and climbers dedicating themselves to strict training regimes (and being able to make a living as professional athletes), the density of climbers within the field has massively increased. As a consequence of a more stacked field in World Cup climbing, even the slightest mistakes can prove costly, and the intricate nature of route setting poses new challenges for climbers.

The rise of a stacked field

With improved training facilities and increased access to specialized coaching, climbers at all levels have elevated their performance capabilities. The once-sparse field has become densely packed with exceptional climbers, all competing for a place on the podium. This increased competition has raised the bar for climbing standards, pushing athletes to their limits and demanding flawless execution. So far, so good. Other sports, such as swimming or running, widely popular worldwide, have dealt with intense competitiveness for decades.

However, there’s a significant difference between climbing and most other sports: climbing far less predictable. In climbing competitions, you can't simply rehearse the same movements repeatedly, as every move, every route, every boulder is unique. While you may encounter similar movements, none are identical.

Consequently, in this highly competitive landscape, every mistake carries significant consequences. A minor slip, a misread beta or misjudgment of a coordinative movement can potentially deprive a climber of a spot in semifinals or finals. The pressure to perform flawlessly has intensified, as athletes understand that the margin for error has diminished. Each movement, hold, and decision matters more than ever, adding an additional layer of psychological and physical challenge.

Another adding factor is the modern style of route setting which has evolved to be more complex and requires more risk-taking. The intention is to push climbers to explore their limits and showcase their adaptability. However, this new style of setting also increases the likelihood of mistakes. The introduction of open, coordinative movements requires climbers to demonstrate exceptional route reading abilities and decision-making skills. As a result, achieving consistent results has become more challenging than ever before.

The increasing variability of climbers' results in recent seasons has added another layer of complexity to the world of competitive climbing. In the last few bouldering seasons, it was not uncommon to see a climber reach the finals or even stand on the podium in one competition, only to find themselves outside the top 30 in the next event. Of course, while the variability of athletes' results seem to have become a trend, there have been exceptional climbers who have been defying the odds and consistently making the podium. To just name a few whose consistency set them apart in a field where variability has become the new norm are Janja Garnbret, Sorato Ankaru, or Jakob Schubert (the latter mostly in lead), 

We should also note that the women's category has shown a higher level of consistency and stability compared to the men's category. While the trend of increasing variability has been observable in the men's category for several years now (particularly in bouldering – but again with few exceptions), last year has seen a noticeable rise in variability in the women's category as well (except for maybe Janja Garnbret). 

Climbing continues to evolve, and the unpredictability in competition results poses a significant challenge, as climbers must now come to terms with the possibility of an entire season without making it to the semifinals or finals regularly. The impact of this irregularity can extend beyond the realm of motivation and confidence, potentially affecting sponsorships and financial support. Climbers find themselves grappling with a new reality where irregularity becomes the new norm, making it increasingly difficult to maintain the consistency necessary for long-term success. Adapting to this will require climbers to cultivate resilience, focus on continuous improvement, as well as on the journey rather than solely on outcomes. It's exciting yet demanding for professional climbers, as they navigate the challenges of an increasingly competitive and unpredictable world cup circuit.

Professional sport psychological support on an elite level – but also already for youth climbers – has become indispensable. We have professionally accompanied World Cup climbers, World Cup medalists, Olympic contenders as well as youth competitors and medalists.

Enroll now for our 1:1 mental coachings. The first 30min are free, so you can get to know us and we can discuss how we can work together on your mindset.

And if you are a coach and want to discuss how we could collaborate with your team, don’t hesitate to reach out!