THE HIDDEN STRUGGLES OF COMPETITIVE CLIMBING

July 8, 2024 madeleine crane

Photo credits: Lena Drapella

After the bouldering and lead World Cup in Innsbruck, I found myself thinking about the bigger picture of what it means to be a pro climber. We all see the incredible feats, the jaw-dropping moves, and the sheer grit that these athletes display, but there’s so much more beneath the surface that often goes unnoticed.

We witness the highs: the travel to scenically beautiful locations (like Innsbruck), the big sponsorships, the Olympic dreams, and the undeniable talent. We admire their confidence, determination, and the mental toughness that seems almost superhuman. These climbers are the embodiment of success and adventure, living the dream that many of us aspire to.

However, behind the scenes, the reality is more complex. Among other things, these climbers also (potentially) face:

Injuries: We all know climbing takes a physical toll, and you might have experienced this yourself: the more you push your own limits, the higher the chances are to eventually injure yourself. When doing climbing on a professional level, the risk of injuries is even higher. It’s a continuous process to stay in top form.
Negative Self-Talk and Self-Doubts: Even the best struggle with inner critics and fears of not measuring up. What if you invest all this time, effort, sweat and tears… and you never reach your goals that you so hard worked for? No success can be taken for granted nor is anyone entitled to being successful.
Pressure and Anxiety: The pressure to perform and meet expectations can be overwhelming, possibly leading to anxiety and fear of failure. Particularly if sponsorships or the national team spot relies on results - which are still in many occasions out of the full control of an athletes due to so many other uncontrollable aspects impacting the results.
Sacrifices: Personal lives, education, and social interactions often take a backseat to training and competing. Think about all these hours invested in trainings, important competitions taking place on the same day like a family wedding or your best friends birthday.
Financial Strain: The costs of competing at a high level can add significant financial stress. In competition climbing, unfortunately it is still impossible to solely love of e.g. the prize money won in competitions. Athletes rely on sponsorships, parental or federation support, side jobs, and so on.
Post-Retirement Struggles: Transitioning to life after competition can be tough, with many athletes facing identity crises and uncertainty about the future. Who are you - after dedicating most of your life to competition climbing, after dedicating so many hours to this sport, being the biggest part of your life and identity - when you end competitions?

This list obviously varies from climber to climber and is by no means complete.

One other thing is that we often hear (or read on the media) external judgements, such as “Why don’t they win?” or “It’s boring because it’s clear he/she will win anyway”. Such comments are not only rude but also fail to recognize the immense, unseen efforts these athletes put in. Such comments completely undermine the athletes’ hard work and dedication, adding unnecessary extra pressure and failing to appreciate them as whole individuals. And don’t we all want to be seen, recognized and accepted not only for our successes but as “whole individuals”, with all our strengths and flaws?

Here are some questions for thought…

…for aspiring climbers:

Why am I climbing? What drives me to pursue this sport?
How can I handle the physical and mental hurdles that come my way?
Am I ready to make the necessary sacrifices in my personal life and finances?

…for coaches:

How can I better support my climbers, not just in their athletic pursuits, but in their overall well-being? How can I put the human behind the athlete first?
What steps can I take to help them manage the pressures and maintain a healthy mindset? How can I be a better role model myself in handling pressure and showcasing a positive mindset?
How can I encourage a balanced life for them, valuing both their climbing and personal growth? How do I balance this myself?

…for the climbing community:

How can we celebrate our role models while being mindful of their potential struggles?
What can we do to create a more supportive and understanding community for climbers at all levels?

…and last but not least for climbing parents:

How can I support my child’s passion for climbing while ensuring they maintain a healthy balance in their life?
What resources can I provide to help them manage stress and pressure?
How can I encourage them to enjoy the journey and not just focus on the results?

As we prepare for the excitement of the upcoming Olympics, let’s remember to look beyond the podium. Let’s appreciate the determination, sweat, and tears that go into each climb, and extend our support and understanding to those who make it all look so easy. We are a community bound by a love for the sport, and together, we can ensure it’s a healthy, sustainable journey for everyone involved.

With that said, keep climbing, and keep supporting each other!