In my current role as @gb_climbing Head Coach there is a noticeable performance shift. Of course we are always process focussed but we are also outcome aware. In simple terms we are training to be able to excel in the competitions and maximise performances. Great athletes are able to seize the moments that define a competition or season. Remember Janja Garnbret topping the semi-final route in Laval without her chalkbag! In these moments elite athletes elevate their game, right when they need it the most.
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Being able to perform consistently in the key moments across an entire season is no easy task and requires a robust array of psychological skills. So let's jump down the rabbit hole of elite performance.

Pressure Illusions

While pressure maybe a real feeling, we are only inhibited by it if we misunderstand it. Being an elite athlete means being exposed to perceptions of performance importance, external events, consequences of failure (& success) or opinions from others. The misunderstandings that develop form habits of thinking that create illusions of pressure. These habits turn into feelings and beliefs that reduce the athletes capacity to perform to their full potential. If you want to compete at the highest level, you cannot allow your emotions to dictate how you climb. Learning that you can win even when you don't feel great and loose when you do is an important frame. ⠀

So, how was we train to reduce perceptions of pressure?⠀

🎯 Increase the Challenge ⠀
Within a controlled training environment you can train at a level above that of the competition. We often mimic constraints that replicate those of the competition but at a higher level. ⠀
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🎯 Train when it's hard⠀
Learning you can still do what's needed even when it's tough. Run session at 6:00am or after a couple of big days training. Athletes who can only perform when all conditions are favourable don't succeed at the top of the sport. ⠀
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🎯 Find Solutions ⠀
The more athletes understand themselves and the sport the more that solutions present themselves when it matters. Decision making is a product of our abilities and the situation we are in. ⠀
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🎯 Climb Instinctively ⠀
Your elite athletes know more about themselves than you ever can. That's why they are elite. Teach them to trust themselves and their instincts. Help your athletes realise no matter however their thoughts and feelings manifest in the moment their instincts are there. ⠀
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🎯 Develop a Preparation Process ⠀
It's highly important an athlete learns to develop a routine that helps them access a flow or zone state. If visual or auditory stimulus is a deliberator find creative solutions to negate the impact. Use positive self affirmation statements.⠀
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Working with elite athletes reflects a very individual approach as each is so different. Learn from them, get to know their patterns.

Cognitive Reappraisal

As mentioned before, elite athletes must learn to perform in less than ideal conditions. We often refer to these occasions as "threat" scenarios. While it's common to try and ignore these scenarios, it the reframing or appraisal of them that makes the difference when it comes to performance. Some things to be aware of as a coach when managing threat scenarios: ⠀
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🎯 Reappraise emotional responses ⠀
Anxiety can be experienced in both a physiological and emotional sense. While physiological responses, such as increase heart rate, can be trained to signify readiness, emotional responses can lead to negative thoughts and feelings.⠀
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🎯 Accept uncertainty⠀
Uncertainty, attention, change and struggle are inevitable aspects of the performance paradigm. As such aiming to avoid their presence can be preparing to fail. Acknowledge them and learn to work with them. As coaches we don't try to eliminate fear in the face of threat. Instead we simply need to help our athletes reappraise the experiences. The goal is not to get rid of fear it's to interpret it. ⠀
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"Fear isn't driving the car, it's there but it's in the back seat. You’re driving". ⠀

Tom Greenall is an innovative, driven and transformative competition climbing coach from Great Britain and currently head coach of the GB climbing team. Over the past few years he has been a driving force behind the development of climbing coaching in the UK. 

Widely recognised for being a highly motivated and collaborative coaching professional, Tom has a grounded "process focussed but outcome aware" approach to high performance programming.

Tom is a strategic thinker with a challenging focus.

His approach is heavily influenced by the constraints based learning and is always striving to create training environments that integrate risk and challenge with support and curiosity.

If you have any questions for Tom or us, leave us a message here!