Climbing Psychology

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A ROLLERCOASTER OF EMOTIONS AT THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS IN BERN 2023

The World Championships in Climbing (WCH) took place quite some time ago; however, we wanted to look back on this significant event from a sport psychological perspective. The WCH showcased not only the astonishing athletic prowess of climbers from around the globe but also the raw and intense emotions that accompany such high-stakes competitions.

In the beginning of August, the competition was held in Bern, and three Olympic Tickets for the Boulder & Lead Combined Climbing and two Olympic Tickets for speed were awarded to the best-performing athletes in both categories for men and women. From the heart-stopping speed climbs to the intricate bouldering challenges and the mesmerizing lead routes, each discipline brought its own set of challenges and triumphs.

©️ Lena Drapella/IFSC

As we decompress from the action and take some time to review more of the competition, it is hard to put into words how emotional this event was, both as a spectator and for the athletes.

The burden of expectations, whether external or internal, can be particularly heavy for climbers in such big events. Qualifying for the World Championships is an achievement in itself, and the desire to perform well and gain recognition amplifies the emotional intensity. Managing these pressures becomes a vital part of a climber's mental preparation.

We want to congratulate all the athletes who climbed on that stage and were part of the competition. Congratulations to all medalists and future Olympic athletes.

In the Boulder discipline, Mickael Mawem (France) stirred up the men’s final and took home the gold medal with an emotional moment on the stage. On the women’s side, Janja Garnbret (Slovenia), the favourite to win, showcased an astounding performance by flashing all problems during the semi-final and the final round.

In the Lead discipline, Austria's Jakob Schubert and Japan's Ai Mori emerged as victors.

In the Boulder & Lead combined climbing discipline Janja Garnebret (Slovenia), Jessica Pilz (Austria), and Ai Mori (Japan), as well as Jakob Shubert (Austria), Colin Duffey (USA) and Tamoa Narasaki (Japan) secured the Olypimic Tickets.

In the Speed discipline, Matteo Zurloni (Italy) and Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (Indonesia) not only secured the Speed titles but also punched their tickets to the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. Accompanying them on this Olympic journey are the second-place finishes of both final races Long Jinbao (China) and Emma Hunt (USA) for the speed climbing event.


Emotions on Display: The Highs and Lows of Competitive Climbing

One could feel the tension, nervousness, pressure, and readiness in the air as climbers prepared to tackle the climbs. Some athletes' faces reflected a mixture of determination and vulnerability, portraying the delicate balance between embracing the moment and grappling with the immense pressure. Emotions are the heart and soul of our climbing experience, and especially at a big event like the WCH, it is no surprise that athletes experience intense emotions.

© Jan Virt/IFSC - Adam Ondra (CZ)

When we think back to the men’s bouldering final, at Mickael Mawem’s climb on the last boulder, after he managed to secure the zone and knew that he had won the World Championship. We get goosebumps just thinking about the psyche that was in the air. Check out this post of us to see his reaction!

This is why we love climbing and watching sports in general. What an emotional, captivating, inspiring, and energizing final round. Emotional contagion in climbing is real.

Emotions are our constant companions, influencing our thoughts, actions, and interactions with the world. As Shauna Coxsey elaborated during one of the live streams: “Dealing with emotions is one of the hardest things in an event like this, especially when the pressure is on. […] I would put a smile on my face and take it as it comes. […] My philosophy is: if you can’t change it, you deal with it or get over it, or do something about it, you know. So if you can’t change it, you just got to deal with a situation that is in front of you.” (Shauna Coxsey, on the IFSC Livestream of the women’s bouldering final)

Navigating emotions in competitive climbing involves recognizing the moments when they might be holding us back and finding ways to channel them positively. Take a deep breath, visualize your next move, and embrace the challenge ahead. Learning to stay cool under pressure and adapt to the emotional ups and downs of a competition can be a game-changer.

Remember that it's okay to feel a wide range of emotions in climbing. They are your allies, your guides, and your teachers. The elation of sending a project, the disappointment of a fall, and the satisfaction of progress — they're all part of the climb. By acknowledging and learning from these emotions, you not only become a better climber but also grow as an individual.

In the women’s bouldering field, Janja demonstrates her remarkable prowess and psychological skills in Bern, securing yet another victory in the bouldering discipline. Throughout the bouldering semi-finals and finals, she did not fall once but flashed all the boulders, which at this level of competition is incredibly difficult to do - it is hard to put into words. The amount of pressure that lies on her, with many people “expecting” her to win and still being able to come out to the mats, excited and ready, focusing on each climb individually - is incredible.
In Janja’s interview with Shauna Coxsey after taking the win, she talks about the immense challenges of winning such competitions and staying at the top. She mentions how strong the other women in the field are and how difficult it is to win. She also gives insights into her mental state: always striving to be the best version of herself, aptly referred to as "the right Janja." Super interesting insights into the inner workings of a high-level athlete’s mindset and lessons learned for all of us. Check this out to see more!

© Lena Drapella/IFSC - Janja Garnbret (SLO)

The World Championships are over, and with it, there are probably also many who are disappointed and have left the stage empty-handed, unable to showcase what they are capable of. The frustration, disappointment, and sadness about this are probably much more common than one assumes. These emotions are also part of it. However, we tend to not speak so openly about it.

That is why we appreciate it when athletes do. Brooke Raboutou had some wise words after placing fourth in the combined Boulder & Lead finals, after having already won the bronze medal in the Boulder competition and achieved a 5th-place finish in lead earlier that week. However, only the first three places in that final secured the first limited tickets to the Paris Olympics. Brooke missed that Olympic ticket by only a few points.

Afterward, Brooke gave an interview with Shauna Coxsey on how she was feeling at that time. Her interview offers an interesting insight into her emotions and thoughts. Brooke’s honest and vulnerable expressions about her feelings at that moment, as well as her gratitude for the overall WCH experience, are truly commendable. Check out her interview here.
In a recent post after the WCH, Brooke shared that she’s simultaneously experiencing a sense of disappointment and joy stemming from that experience. We really resonate with her post! Read her post here.

“I found joy in cheering on my competitors and peace in letting myself feel disappointment without judgment. I’ve learned that joy and pain can live together, so I will try to let them." (Brooke Raboutou on the 13th of August 2023)

© Jan Virt/IFSC - Brooke Raboutou (USA)

As the World Championships in Climbing in Bern recede into history, the memories of triumphant climbs and fierce battles against internal and external pressures remain. Whether you're a climber striving for excellence or someone simply appreciating the journey of these athletes, remember that the emotions on display are an integral part of our sport, adding depth and resonance to each ascent and victory. Just as climbers push their boundaries on the wall, so too do they explore the depths of their emotional landscapes, emerging stronger and more resilient on the other side.

Learning to accept, deal with, and regulate our emotions often is a central aspect of our 1:1 mental coaching - regardless of experience, professionalism, or age.

Remember, it is never too late to start working on your mindset, and through that, find solutions for what's been holding you back mentally. Enroll now for our 1:1 mental coaching. The first 30 minutes are free, so you can get to know us, and we can discuss how we can work together on your mindset. You can find more information about this offer here!

Let us know what you think about the WCH in Bern below! What were your favorite moments of the competition?